Depending on the vehicle, there are two ways to access the bolts for the torque converter. Unless they are electric, I wouldn't be able to use them. If so, remove the three bolts and then wiggle the converter free from the center bore of the crankshaft. Change the turbo oil return to something more reliable. Hey guys, I just picked up a spare engine to start building for my P5T. I've heard of people try to bolt the converter on then install the trans. We took the Allison off today so we can put the manual Trans on but I have no clue how to pull what is left of the torque converter out of the bell housing.
I have a leak coming from behind the torque converter, pump seal I guess. Note Be careful not to place any force on lever shaft when loosening or tightening the mourning bolt, to prevent damage to shaft in transmission. Next time, do this before pulling the engine. I tried breaking the bolts loose last Sunday but they were stuck good! Mark Armando, it sounds like you might be better prepared than I wanted to give you credit for. Just removed from the car.
My last transmission project was in 1987. My nephew blew the engine in the M818, long story short, we got a new engine from Kansas Glen and it came with a Allison glued to it. Of course, I was ridiculously organized and have been working on it slowly for the last week here and there. Would this work even without the transmisson bolted to the block? Are there any tricks to getting to them? Your help would help and thanks in advance, Clint So where to start? Eric Once you remove the torque convertor to flywheel bolts the torque convertor will come right off, it may fall off. From what I understand, a torque converter is like a clutch in a Manual, so if you have a lot of slipping, chances are you have a bad torque converter.
To remove the crankshaft pulley off first you must remove the torque converter. It should look almost identical to the very first piece that you removed except it will be facing in the reverse position. To do this put the torque convertor on the trans, if you can stand it up on the tail shaft with a pan under the tail shaft to catch tranny fluid. This is precisely the sort of advice I was looking for. Mount Special Tool 9301 on torque converter and lift out converter carefully. So apparently it really just is four bolts that need to be removed.
Take off control pressure lever. It dont matter how strong you are if you cant get enough leverage or use the wrong tools. Step 2 — Remove the Outer Driver Clutch Pulley Drum Face After you have removed the bolt from the center of the driver pulley, carefully remove the drum from the outer face of the pulley. Just thought I'd check before tearing into the job. Repeat these procedures twice and let the fluid drain through the drain plug. Note—You should not have to move the motor very much at all. So in addition to the rear main, Im changing the input shaft seal, filter, gasket, fluid, drain plug and this bushing if i can find another one.
Anyone with specific experience with these have any suggestions? But I'm not certain how to verify this. Just be sure the converter is fully seated in the frt pump on reinstall. Install transmission in assembly stand with Special Tool 9162. Make sure the airbag readiness light is working. Discover all there is to know about the greatest Porsches ever made.
I will have a crack at this on Friday and will post an update. Should I look for an offset 16mm box-end wrench? Am going to discard the auto trans in favor of a T5. If not fixed, a belt that is too tight may lead to a rapid belt wear and may even damage the torque converter itself. Edit: I see the engine was rebuilt 50K ago, I still think I would remove the oil pan give it a good clean and inspection. Unless they are electric, I wouldn't be able to use them. That stops the flywheel from turning and the bolt will easily break loose. My trans fluid was just dirty enough to look like used oil.
I have a 90 325 auto. Thanks Doing the tailshaft seal as well. I searched and found nothing that helped so I am turning over to brothers in arms. I'm trying to stay away from rebuilding the motor since it was supposedly done 50K ago. We took the Allison off today so we can put the manual Trans on but I have no clue how to pull what is left of the torque converter out of the bell housing. When cleaning up the engine I discovered an access port about the middle height-wise of the front of the engine assuming the starter is at the back with a rubber 'door' on it that you can just pull out using the little handle in the middle that lines up well with the torque converter bolts and I'm sure is designed to give access.
. Definitely a job where it's good to have a friend. I have a 90 325 auto. Mark i will look into that today i have no problem doing it i did my transfrercase already i have all the bolts of the trans ill get it done today thanx for the help ill post how it goses You do know that the converter has to come off and back on with the transmission. Refer to Windshield Side Garnish Molding Replacement.