If I press the 'doors lock' button before getting out of the car, only rear doors and boot locks operate but they disarm themselves when I get out of the car and shut the driver door. I only opened up the left half, because that's all you need to get to. Please reply with your thoughts here if you would. I'll add my notes in case anyone does this same thing. If I press the unlock button on the remote a second time quickly after I press it the first time , all the rest of the doors unlock. Bumping this since it was helpful for me while fixing my front left door lock actuator particularly the two posts quoted above. Might was well get to it first off.
However, when I press the power lock button on the driver's side console or the passenger's side mini console all 5 of my doors do nothing. There's another one in the forums that must be for a different model or something, and it gave me a false sense of hope. Mode 4 links the automatic locking and unlocking of the doors with the shift and key positions. You will need to remove that. This would be a benefit to you. When the car door locks were working fine, when I pressed on the wireless remote to open the door locks unlock button on the remote and all doors shut of course, the audible beeper would beep twice in quick succession and the doors would unlock automatically.
Let me add this, I usually get the car to beep once an audible sound when I lock the doors and beep twice when I lock the doors. I do this several times each day! Didn't work for me either. Under that are two screws that you remove. This indicated to me that I had an open circuit somewhere between that junction plug and the plug for the lock actuator. So what could be the cause do you think? So it's basically a dance around the car every time I leave it somewhere to make sure that all the doors are locked.
The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. Meaning, the remote would at times work property with all 5 doors -- lock and unlock and then, things were different. I tested it and it did not move at all when connected to the power door lock switch. Many thanks Wind the passenger window right down and with a torch look into the door while you work the door handle from the inside. Then detach the 2 plastic clips mine were pink and yellow that hold the rods to the outside door handle. Don't worry, the window track is fine once you bolt it back in. Then slide it forward to get it loose.
The end has a kind of chamfered ball at the end. Since the car cannot lock the doors, there is no single beep sound from the car. You could probably get to the plastic piece and detach the rod like the others, but I found it difficult to access the clip. Sure enough, this worked where the car automatically unlocked and locked when the unlock and lock rocker switch on the master driver's side power control was pressed back and forth. If you pull the door handle assembly out, you can see it.
If they got bent a little in the process your lock knob or inside handle could end up being a little sticky and you need to open it back up and bend the rod back how it was. My dealership are baffled and I am sure they must think I am incapable of using my fob correctly but that's not the case at all. This happens about half the number of times of cycle trials I have run. Take out the 3 bolts that hold in the door latch. Here are some things I have discovered I wish to save with you: If I place my car key in the driver's side door lock cylinder and turn the car key to the left about 90 degrees as to lock the car door I can see the manual door lock lever locks manually on the inside door panel as I turn the key from looking outside. On a three door rav , do you call the back door the boot then? Very fiddly fitting it, small hands an advantage.
One flash indicates mode 1, two flashes mode 2, three flashes mode 3, and four flashes mode 4. To do this I had someone in the driver's seat with all doors on the car closed as I locked the car from the driver's side door lock cylinder manually. I ordered and replaced the driver's side actuator today a tricky job by removing the door panel and replacing the motor. Only the unlock button on the unlock and lock rocker switch on the master driver's side power control works as right along. That's the way all my other cars have worked. Slide the whole handle plastic piece forward until it is loose. I am going to follow your steps! It went back together fine, though, and the window works great.
Nothing will work if the locking portion of this circuit will work if the master switch is defective on the locking side. Remove one end of that clip with screwdriver, needlenose, fingers, whatever. Now, afterwards with this issue, I still get the audible beeper twice when I unlock the shut doors all doors unlock ; but I do not get the one quick beep when I lock the doors and of course all the doors do not lock too. All 5 doors will unlock fine all the time. I hope with the details I have shed some light on this issue and even given some thoughts about what may be happening now, that someone can provide me some ideas would be appreciated.