And lets face it, if the service engine light is on then you need it now! Thanks again for your help! The spark plug would be fouled out and not causing a spark. Also note under tech notes that there is a relearning proccedure you should do. The connector may have a removable cover. Swap the spark plug with another plug and see if the engine misfire changes to the other cylinder. If it does, then the injector is not working and would need replaced.
It has over 120,000 miles and does not leak a drop of fluid anywhere, it tracks straight, tires wear great, no rattles, and so on. . If I could get to them I'd replace them and I think that'd fix it, but getting to the studs seems impossible. Also this current relative hydrocarbon density in rich. So please read our and when you're ready jump in! So I got a P2A03 code the other day. I would also call the nissan dealer and see what they may know.
So I replaced the rear o2 sensors and left the non-foulers in. Must have been Monday at the muffler factory. I hate these emmision problems and I think the ethanol has something to do with it! I should have addressed this earlier, but it's my wife's car and I rarely drive it. Together with its control electronics, the sensor outputs a clear, continuous signal throughout a wide Lambda range. There is no update that I know of for this code.
As far as the K+N is concerned, take a real good look at it, do a search for the test a guy did on them and other filters. If your spark plugs look good, problems with your ignition system can also preventing a spark. I installed a Racingline Y-Pipe on my Maxima and the next day got a P2A03 code O2 sensor out of range. My understanding is the sensor should read between 0. I figure it might be because I haven't tuned the car to the exhaust yet.
I'm not sure, but its worth a look. You should also check that the spark plug gap is set properly. Please use the form on our Contact Page to get in touch with us. The K+N flows a lot of air, but also dirt. P2A03 Nissan Possible Solution: The crankshaft sensor signals the fuel injection computer or the ignition control when the cylinders are firing. I cleaned every ground I could find. So you should chech it on our car models.
As a test I can send another sensor out to try, but experience tells me that that will not help. If either sensor isn't working correctly, the car will run rough and the engine will be less efficient. Also, on a hot day as the gas heats up and vaporizes, those same vapors push into the canister where they're stored. If you are using Premium, go ahead and keep using it. I know in my outdoor power equipment business its a huge problem.
If your are for a different car, select that vehicle series before searching for the diagnostic codes because not all used by one manufacture are used by the other makes. If you just swap cats before doing the diagnostics, you may get the same code back when you are done. I can't even get any type of cutoff tool in there to cut them of!!! As the problem seems to be elsewhere. Material may not be copied or reprinted without written permission. If it changes, then the plugs need replaced. If you have any more questions on this, please feel free to ask. Look here: You will note that there are several causes for the code, related to the engine running lean.
Second question; what do you make of the voltage differences between the two banks? Anyway, I reset the P2A03 and it came back about 50 miles later. If you have any doubt as to repairs on your vehicle, please contact your technician. No other codes to note besides the P2A03 which has yet to return. Car runs and drives fine and has no exhaust leaks or vacuum leaks that I can hear? Warranty may cover it depending on your mileage. It worked for about 40 miles then I got p2a03 codes. When you fill your car with gas, the vapors in the tank get forced into a canister filled with activated charcoal. If there is no change, then either the injector is not working or the cylinder has a burned valve or a stuck piston ring.