When either 3rd or 4th gear is selected, this lip secures both the reverse and the 1st-2nd forks, leaving the 3rd-4th fork free to be moved by the selector pin. We will be looking at these later. I've done all the usual things like getting the switches out which is easier said than done and then cleaning them with switch cleaner and finally replacing them with new ones. As for recouping costs, The gearbox doesn't really owe me anything so it's only the parts and my time, Which I've got loads of at the mo. Support the box on the centre plate and remove the front cover and gasket.
It had only had one previous owner and came with a full Land Rover service history. The vehicle only has 80,000 kms on it and runs very well. To remove the rear cover, first remove the drive flange and the speedometer driven gear and housing the locating boss for the rear selector spool and the ten retaining bolts and spring washers. The above frequently asked questions are courtesy of. When you fit a new gearbox this can sometimes need adjusting to agree with the selector shafts to ensure a clean gearshift. So first job was to clean the extension casing up. If you then advise us of the part number you require we will then quote you for this part if we are able to supply.
Probably keep it, I'll no doubt have another project at some point and I'll stick it in that. Bloody good stuff but not cheap. Remove the oil pump drive shaft from the layshaft and the circlip from the selector shaft. This plate is inexpensive and can be changed with gearbox in situ. When they went from 'E' to 'F' larger layshaft bearings were used. Remove the layshaft and input shaft bearing tracks.
Or do I order from somewhere I can choose the brand. If you can help, would appreciate. Of all the things on this job, The thing that scares me the most is the selectors They're probably really easy to be fair but I just make them complicated in my head. Probably not very to be honest. Next, removal of the main casing. Any suggestions would be great. The front oil seal will be retained inside the cover.
If 1st or 2nd gear is selected the spool is turned anticlockwise by the selector pin, this time locking the reverse and 3rd-4th selector forks. The two shafts can be separated by removing the pin or alternatively, by manoeuvring the remote control housing and sliding the remote shaft from the pin. See below for further information on this progression. Sounds like an interesting trip you've got lined up there Siberia. For instance, it utilises a single selector rail for selection of all gears.
Release the pressure on the selector shaft detent spring and ball align the 5th gear selector pin with the slot in the centre plate and lift the selector shaft and mainshaft clear. When 5th gear is chosen as you see in the bottom left diagram, a gap in the lip allows the pin to move the selector backwards. Cheers, and Happy Holidays to all! I contacted Dave Ashcroft who supplied the box a few years ago and he reckons its most likely the O-ring on the top horizontal shaft - item 12 below. When you have worked this out you can slacken the 4 screws holding the plate and move the plate left or right accordingly to improve the shifts, the holes are elongated to allow some movement. Incidentally, the centre plate and the main casing are supplied as an assembly and if one is being replaced, so must the other.
If your gearbox has the following prefix you have a long stick box - 50A, 51A, 52A, 56A, 60A, 61A. But progress non the less and it's not like I've got anything else to do. Remove the gasket; then clamp the centre plate to the main casing, with two dummy bolts. This the part that the gearstick bolts to. Not sure if I got done as much as I thought I would or not. Links to Paddock and Ashcroft websites seen in video below: Paddock Gearboxes from Ashcroft Transmissions Ashcroft Transmissions Part 1 in an ongoing series. But it depends how money is and if I get some work.
It's obviously not as straightforwards as I thought! This is very common on Diesel engined vehicles. I will be replacing the clutch but if the lt77 is also a problem then I would like to exchange whilst its all dropped. This was a good eleven years ago. A common fault with these boxes is a thrust washer in the 1 — 2 synchro assembly splitting in half and blocking movement. Surcharges will apply if your exchange unit is not as detailed above.