A fuel pressure regulator is a good idea to lower pressure while off-roading to avoid flooding issues. It works great on my stocker, although it's mounted backwards, for ease of hooking up the throttle. These Carb are not legal for use on pollution controlled vehicles. So 1st question is of course, is this the right carb for the sammi? At times it may appear to be showing signs of richness or flooding it is really a lean condition. I rarely drive it over 50-55, but if I did, there would still be power left. Third, you need to relocate the fuel bowl vent. The factory Samurai choke is water so if you want the easiest install that is what you want but the electric is easy as well.
They are awesome for the power and highway driving though. . You will hear a metallic click as the cam is released. The assumption is that you have everything bolted up and attached and you are just about ready to fire it up. Adjust to best, fastest and smoothest running point. The problem carb is the stocker, and besides ripping it out of there i'm not budgeting much time on it as long as it keeps running. Speaking of blocking plates, a small block Chevy fuel pump blockoff plate will work with a little modification.
If you want to play it safe, find an intake manifold and permanently plug all the vacuum ports. They work better at angles. Thanks, Tojam I'm not too surprised that the luv is jetted the same assuming it was jetted correctly. It should have a 160 primary, and 170 secondary air jets. Lastly, where do I find the idle jets? You can chose at the time of installation either style. It would be fairly easy to tell though, face the lingage toward you and on the right hand side you should see either a big round thing with a post in the middle of it for a wire or a set of hose fittings that look like a capital A that would be a water choke.
You can still buy re-manufactured Hitachi's, but they cost more than a brand new weber. Use this for the Weber and the old intake for when you want to switch back to the Hitachi carb for emissions tests. To compensate for slow timing the jetting is rich on the idle circuit and lean on the mains. Re-centering the throttle valve does help sometimes although I don't recommend it since it can affect off-idle response if not set correctly. You may have opened turned in the speed screw.
Start the engine, the engine will run very slowly more like a tractor. If the speed screw has to be opened 2 or more turns then this is also an indication of a lean condition usually requiring greater change. This is head and shoulders above your stock carb. Achieving the best idle at under 2 turns indicates the need for a smaller idle jet. You will notice a couple of rectangles that pass through the top. A motor rewind and distributor shop was able to reweight and cut back the mechanical stops on our distributor so that we get 12 degrees, or 24 degrees on the crank, of mechanical advance at 4000 rpm.
His weber threads helped me a bunch mounting mine up as well as the other info people gave me. I don't think installing a Weber will help passing a smog test. The jetting for the Jeep is way too big , baseline starting point on the 1. I guess I'm surprised the the air jet no idea what they do are the same for both engines and the mains are so close in number. If it runs too fast when cold, and dies when warmed up, that's the exact same thing mine was doing. Tie the connectors up out of the way so they won't be damaged or cause damage.
If you're in an area where smog checks are done, some of this changes however, but in my state, they don't check anything after you first register it. Thats about as much as I feel comfortable telling, I might have even explained that wrong!. He's the resident weber guru. I didn't know there was a 3rd set to look for when I had the top of the carb off. Pick a cv carb up on fleabay and build your own manifold adapter. More than likely someone has either bent the base or the shaft is just wore into a bad pattern, it's common on the Spanish models.
These circuits are what make drivability just off idle clear up to 2k or so. I guess I''ll have to wear my bi-focals next time, huh?? If at the point of opening the secondary there is a hesitation or balking, the secondary idle jet needs to be larger. E-Mail This Site Designed By WebSite Design. If that happens you'll have to go up in main jet size and increase the air jet to compensate the cruise mixture. There are three kits to choose from depending on the style of choke you want to run. Once properly set, the carb should seriously roar when the secondary is opened as you are feeding a lot of air at once. Now, you are ready to chuck those darn things at the closest dumpster.
See Exemptions in the notes column for E. Darn thing would climb a tree if you knew how to ask it tho'. I have had a Weber on my rig for close too ten years and I have not had an issue from them just being disconnected. I ended up ordering a pair of 137 mains, figured with baseline usually at sea level dropping down 1 more step wouldn't be a bad place to start. I registered mine out of town to bypass that.